How to sew an invisible pocket: placement, method, and tips
Add invisible pockets to your skirts, dresses, flowing pants
It's time to recycle your fabric scraps 👇
1 Where to place the pocket in your skirt
The pocket is placed in the side seam — this is the cleanest, strongest, and most invisible solution. From the front, you see nothing. The opening is completely blended into the seam. This technique is very simple to do, you can replicate it on a new creation or an existing garment. If you want to add pockets to a store-bought skirt/dress or flowing pants, it's also possible. Depending on the finishes, it will take more or less time to unpick the part of the side seams we're interested in. In terms of technique, it's no more complicated.
The standard placement is between 18 and 22 cm below the waistband. The reference point here will be the top of your hip bone.
The specified measurement corresponds to the area where your hand naturally falls along your body. Below this range, the pocket becomes unusable — you have to bend your arm uncomfortably to access it. Above, it creates a visible bulge at the hip and can gape open when you move.
How to measure correctly
If your garment is already sewn, the best thing to do is simply to put on your garment and place a pin as a marker for the starting point of your pocket. The marker pin should be placed at your wrist.
To measure correctly, start from the top of your hip bone. Your arms should be relaxed along your body. The beginning of the opening should be at the bottom of your wrist. The goal is for you to be able to put your hand in your pocket naturally and comfortably.
Please note, this is a general rule; it's possible that your garment may require adjustment depending on its cut. For example, on a mini skirt, you will need to place the pockets higher so that they do not extend beyond the level of your work.
2 Pocket dimensions and pattern
Before we even talk about sewing, let's talk about dimensions. This is the moment that will determine whether your pocket will be functional or not. Here, we don't want a decorative pocket but something practical.
The standard dimensions for a truly functional pocket: 17 cm wide × 27 cm high. These measurements allow you to slip in a large phone, a set of keys, and a bank card without the pocket being stretched to breaking point. Personally, this is the format I use.
What fabric for the pockets?
If your main fabric is thick (denim, wool, velvet), I strongly recommend cutting your pocket pieces from a light canvas — fine cotton, voile, or light poplin. There are two reasons for this: first, it significantly reduces the bulk of fabric at the hip, which makes the pocket more invisible from the front. Second, light fabrics slide better into the pocket, making it more pleasant to use daily.
On a thin or flowing fabric (viscose, crepe, silk), use the same fabric or a lining fabric of the same weight. If you use a fabric that is too rigid for the pockets on a flowing skirt, the pocket will pull the fabric down and create a visible distortion.
You can, of course, use fabric scraps; in this case, make sure to follow the rules mentioned above as closely as possible.
3 The correct sewing order
The first step will depend on where you are in your project or which garment you wish to modify. Here is the absolute rule to remember: the pocket is assembled before closing the side seam.
If you are in the process of creating, you must place the pockets before sewing the side seams.
If you are working on an already sewn garment, arm yourself with a little patience and unpick the side seams. You don't have to unpick all the way down (depending on the model) but at least down to the knee level. If you only unpick the pocket placement, you will never get a clean result.
Step 1 — Mark the opening on the skirt
On each skirt panel (front panel and back panel), mark the beginning and end of the pocket opening on the side edge with tailor's chalk or a pin. These marks correspond to the placement you defined in step 1 — between 18 and 22 cm below the waistband, over a height of 14 to 16 cm.
Step 2 — Cut the four pieces
If you decide to recycle fabric scraps, you will need 4 pieces of 19 x 27 cm.
Cut four identical pocket pieces (two for each side of the skirt). Two on the wrong side of your fabric and two on the right side.
Step 3 — Positioning the pockets
At this stage, you have already placed your pocket placement marks. You will simply place your pockets at these marks, right sides together. I advise you to place the front and back of your skirt/dress face to face to ensure the pockets are positioned at the same level.
Place your pocket right sides together with the skirt part at the previously placed mark.
Stitch at 5 mm from the edge. I insist! 5 mm from the edge, not 1 cm.
Repeat the process for the other pockets.
Step 4 — First pressing of the pocket
Once you have made the first seams, unfold the pocket, press the seam allowances to the side of the piece. Make sure everything is laid flat.
Turn your work to the right side. Your pocket and your piece are facing each other. Make a topstitch to hold the seam allowance on the side of your piece. This topstitch will reinforce the pocket opening. It's the finish before the finish.
Step 5 — Sew the pocket to the skirt panel
All that's left is to assemble the two pieces together. To do this, it's very simple, just place your two pieces right sides together. Pin.
Be careful, you will not assemble in a straight line, but you will follow the line of the pocket.
Start from the top of your work, sew with a straight stitch up to the first marker P. A little before reaching the marker, shorten your stitch (from 2.5 to 1.9 for example). Once you reach P, lift your foot, turn your work to follow the curve of the pocket, stitch a few stitches, then you can return to your initial stitch length (2.5).
Continue to sew along the curve of your pocket, then repeat the same operation for the second marker P.
Step 6 — Clip and finish the pocket bag
Before clipping, turn your pocket to the inside. Press to flatten. If you notice an unsightly crease at the opening, clip. However, if your pocket lies perfectly flat without creasing, do not clip.
Here, the goal is to avoid having a crease when you place your pockets inside the garment. Be careful not to cut too close to your seam to ensure it lasts (the tension of the pocket should not put too much stress on your stitches).
It's time to reinforce your pocket bag. I know! It's not the most fun step, but if you skip it, you'll most likely regret it.
The goal is simply to serge all along the seam you just made. Two options are available depending on the equipment you have. Serge either with a serger or with the zig-zag stitch of your sewing machine.
Step 7 — Press the pockets to the inside
Once the side seam is closed, turn the skirt inside out and carefully press the entire open side seam with an iron, including the pocket area. Then, turn the skirt right side out and press from the outside, pressing firmly on the pocket opening.
This double pressing — wrong side then right side — is what gives it that perfectly flat and professional look. Never skip this step, even if you're in a hurry.
4 Adapting the method to your skirt
This method applies to the vast majority of homemade skirts, but a few specific cases deserve special attention.
Straight or pencil skirt
This is the easiest case — the side seam is straight and accessible. Position the pocket approximately 18 cm below the waistband and ensure that the opening does not exceed the height of your hip. On a very fitted pencil skirt, the pocket can create a slight bulge if the fabric lacks ease — always check by wearing the skirt before sewing permanently.
Flared or A-line skirt
The fabric is looser, so the pocket has more space to lie flat. You can position it up to 22 cm below the waistband. On a very flared skirt, the pocket may "ride up" slightly due to the fabric's volume — in this case, pin one end of the pocket to the bottom of the side seam to keep it in place (you've probably seen this stitching in store-bought clothes).
5 The most frequent mistakes (and how to avoid them)
Here are the most common ones and how to easily avoid them.
The pocket gapes open
Cause: the pressing of the opening was rushed, or the pocket fabric is heavier than the skirt fabric. Solution: topstitch the opening 2 mm from the edge on the right side, and use a pocket fabric lighter than the main fabric.
The pocket creates a bulge at the hip
Cause: pocket positioned too high (less than 18 cm below the waistband), or pocket fabric too thick. Solution: reposition at 20 cm and cut the pockets from light canvas.
The opening tears quickly
Cause: absence of bartack at the ends of the opening. Solution: systematically reinforce both corners of the opening with a cross stitch or a bar tack.
The pocket turns and shows on the right side
Cause: the pocket was not pressed sufficiently to the inside before closing the side seam. Solution: press lengthily and firmly before closing — this is the most important step in the entire process.
Patterns for sewing your skirts
Summary — your perfect pocket checklist
Before declaring your pocket finished, go through each point:
- ✅ The pocket is positioned between 18 and 22 cm below the finished waistband.
- ✅ The four pocket pieces are cut identically, with regular curves.
- ✅ The pockets are cut from a fabric suitable for the weight of your skirt.
- ✅ The pocket bags are serged.
- ✅ The pocket was sewn to the skirt panel before the side seam was closed.
- ✅ The pocket was carefully pressed inwards before closing the side seam.
- ✅ Both ends of the opening are reinforced with a bartack.
- ✅ An opening topstitch was made if the fabric is light or fluid.
- ✅ The skirt was pressed flat on the wrong side and right side after closing the seam.
- ✅ The opening remains flat and does not gape once the skirt is worn.
