Free multi-tiered circle skirt pattern: elasticated waist, full method

1Materials Needed

• Your fabric (quantity depending on your size)
• Elastic suitable for your waist measurement
• Measuring tape
• Ideally, a compass or string + chalk

2Taking your measurements

Two measurements are enough to calculate everything:

Hip circumference: measuring tape flat, not tight, at the widest part of your hips.

Skirt length: this determines the opening, as the skirt must be able to pass over your hips to be put on. This is the length from your waist, at the level you want your skirt to sit, down to where you want the hem to fall.

3Determine your fabric length

I'll explain how I calculate the different measurements, and then you'll have access to a calculator that does the work for you.

The goal here will be to make a circle for each tier. For this, you will need a square of fabric that you will fold into four. One square = one tier.

This step helps you determine the measurements you will need.

Step 1 — The length of each tier

At this stage, the photos help you visualize what the measurements I'm talking about correspond to. I'll tell you how to get the circles in the next step.

As a reminder, each circle corresponds to a tier. You can have 1 or more tiers. For a simple circle skirt, you can only make the base circle. To this circle(s), you will add the waistband part.

For example, for my skirt, I decided to take a total length of 47.5 cm (starting from my waist level). I'm using a standard measurement of 5.5 cm for the width of the waistband (where the elastic will be) for a 4.5 cm elastic. Adjust this measurement according to the width of your elastic.

Example: if your elastic is 3 cm wide, subtract 4 cm.

The base of my skirt will therefore be 47.5 cm − 5.5 cm = 42 cm.

I add my seam allowances, which are 1 cm distributed at the top and bottom of the circle, making a total of 2 cm: the base circle is therefore 44 cm.

For the other tiers of the skirt, you decide on the length. For my part, I chose a simple method: I divide the base measurement (42 cm, without allowance) by 2 for the second tier, then by 3 for the first tier.

Which gives me:

First tier (the smallest, at the top): 14 cm (+2 cm allowance)

Second tier: 21 cm (+2 cm allowance)

Third tier / base circle (the largest, at the bottom): 42 cm (+2 cm allowance)

Step 2 — The radius of your circle

To determine the radius of your circle from center A, it's very simple: you just need your hip measurement (+ ease). Note the radius AB — this is your inner radius, it will be identical for all tiers as they share the same opening.

Determine the length of your fabric square

Now, all you have to do is add the radius of your circle (AB) to the length of the tier's ruffle (BC) to get the outer radius AC. The side of your fabric square = AC × 2.

AB = inner radius (already calculated, identical for all tiers)  •  BC = length of the tier's ruffle  •  AC = AB + BC, the outer radius to transfer to your fabric.

Here, for my base circle: AB = 16.2 cm, BC = 44 cm (including seam allowances). AC = 16.2 + 44 = 60.2 cm. I multiply by 2: 60.2 × 2 = 120.5 cm. I need a fabric square of approximately 120 cm per side for my base circle.

Repeat this operation for each tier (each desired circle/flounce) — this is exactly what the calculator below does.

Cut your fabric

Once your square is cut, fold it twice to obtain 4 layers. The goal is to cut a 1/4 circle: once the fabric is unfolded, you will have your complete circle.

You should have two sides with raw edges (the fabric is not folded) and two sides with folded fabric. These are the ones we will be interested in. The point corresponds to reference A.

Make sure your fabric is held firmly in place; pin if necessary.

Concretely, on your paper or directly on the fabric folded in four:

• Place point A in the corner where the two sides are folded.
• From A, measure your calculated radius AB and place point B.
• From A, draw an arc with a compass (or taut string) connecting the entire circumference: this is your opening.
• From B, transfer the ruffle length (BC) of the tier you are cutting: you get point C.
• From A, draw a second arc passing through C, all the way around.

4Assembly

This is the quickest part: the tiers are layered, from largest (bottom) to smallest (top), then finished with the waistband.

1. Rolled hem on the ruffles Create a rolled hem on your machine on each ruffle (using your regular presser foot). On the wrong side: fold the edge of the fabric to be hemmed by a few millimeters, then stitch with a straight stitch close to the fold, about 2-3 mm from the folded edge. Trim the excess fabric that extends beyond the seam, without cutting the seam itself. Fold the edge over itself a second time (still on the wrong side) and make a new seam a few millimeters from the edge.
2. Stack your tiers In order: the largest (the base) at the bottom, then the progressively smaller ones on top, until the smallest one on the very top. The wrong side of each upper tier is on the right side of the lower tier. Sew along the entire opening to hold your ruffles together.
3. Determine the length of your elastic Before sewing the waistband, determine the length of the elastic. It depends on your preference (looser or tighter): try the elastic directly around your waist, tightening it more or less to your liking. Once you've chosen the length, add 2 cm for seam allowances, then join the ends of the elastic with a zig-zag stitch.
4. Prepare your waistband piece
   

   Your waistband will look like the photo on the right.

5. Cut your waistband strip Cut a strip of fabric H wide by L long. H = (elastic width + 0.5 cm + 1 cm seam allowances) × 2. L = your hip circumference + ease.
   💡

   Example

   With a 4.5 cm elastic and a hip circumference of 100 cm (2 cm ease): H = (4.5 + 0.5 + 1) × 2 = 12 cm
   , L = 100 + 2 = 102 cm
   
6. Assemble and attach your waistband
   

   Right sides together, join the ends of the strip. Then fold the strip in half, right sides together, across the width. Press with your iron and stitch 0.75 cm from the fold edge.

   Your elastic is smaller than your waistband, which is normal. Slip your elastic inside your waistband: you'll have excess fabric, but it will all come together as you go. Once your elastic is slipped in, close your waistband, being careful not to sew the elastic. Once your waistband is closed, distribute the gathers that have formed.

   Finally, sew a seam in the middle of your waistband, over the elastic — you will need to stretch it when you are at your machine.

   Your waistband is ready. All that's left is to join the skirt and the waistband, right sides together. Sew a seam 1 cm from the edge.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial, feel free to discover the skirt patterns in the shop just below 👇🏼