Invisible Pocket: Draft Your Pattern in 4 Steps
This is the sign you needed to sew an invisible pocket onto your clothes
Today, a new demand, enough is enough: we want pockets for our skirts and dresses! Summer is coming, and I want to be able to slip in my phone, my credit card, or my keys… without having to carry a bag every time.
The good news? You can design your own invisible pocket in minutes, with just an A4 sheet, a ruler, and a pencil. In this article, I'll show you how to construct this pattern in 4 simple steps. Ready? Let's get creative ✂️
Why the invisible pocket changes everything
In store-bought clothes, it's more than rare to find integrated and PRACTICAL pockets for skirts and dresses. And yet… a picnic, a stroll by the sea, a barbecue, a wedding, so many situations where you have no desire to be tied to your handbag. Sewing an invisible pocket is an accessible sewing project for all levels, simple, and it allows you to recycle your fabric scraps (I know you have plenty). You can follow this tutorial on an existing garment or on a future creation. This page is dedicated to drawing the pocket pattern.
The invisible pocket, also called side pocket or concealed side pocket, is sewn into the side seams of a skirt or dress. It's not visible from the outside, doesn't distort the garment's line, yet it's there, ready to hold your essentials.
What's great about this pocket design is its versatility. You can integrate it into almost all your projects: a straight skirt, a flared skirt, a summer dress, flowing trousers… The dimensions I give you here — 17 cm wide by 27 cm high — are designed to be functional: large enough for a modern smartphone, but not too bulky to avoid distorting the silhouette.
The materials you need
Before you start drawing, make sure you have everything you need at hand. The list is short, which is one of the advantages of this technique:
- ✓ An A4 sheet (or pattern paper, tracing paper, tissue paper — anything works)
- ✓ Aruler at least 30 cm long
- ✓ A pencil and an eraser
- ✓ A French curve (or a flexible curve ruler) (optional but useful for drawing curves)
- ✓ Scissors to cut out the pattern
If you have grid pattern paper, even better: the grid makes it easier to draw straight lines and measurements. But a simple white A4 sheet works perfectly fine.
The 4 steps to draw your pattern
I'll guide you step by step. Each step is very simple, and at the end, you'll have a clean pattern, ready to be cut from your fabric. Here's an overview of the 4 steps before we go into detail:
1 Draw the base rectangle ABCD
The first step is to lay the foundation of your pattern. Take your A4 sheet and draw a rectangle 17 cm wide by 27 cm high. This rectangle will form the overall envelope of your pocket.
Name each of the four corners of this rectangle so you can easily refer to them in the following steps:
- A — top-left corner
- B — top-right corner
- C — bottom-right corner
- D — bottom-left corner
Why these dimensions?
17 cm wide is enough for an adult hand and a standard smartphone. 27 cm high provides a deep pocket that won't empty every time you move. These measurements are a good starting point: you can adjust them according to your body shape and needs.
If you have large hands or want a really generous pocket, you can go up to 19 cm wide. Conversely, for a very fitted skirt, 15 cm wide is sufficient, and the pocket will be less visible.
2 Draw the EF line
You have your ABCD rectangle. Now, inside this rectangle, you're going to draw a second horizontal line: the EF line.
This line is parallel to line AB (the top edge of your rectangle), and it is placed 17 cm away from AB, moving downwards. In other words, measure 17 cm from the top, draw a horizontal line from left to right — it should also be 17 cm long, like AB.
- E is the point to the left of this line (it is therefore on the left edge of the rectangle, 17 cm from corner A)
- F is the point to the right (on the right edge of the rectangle, 17 cm from corner B)
What is the EF line for?
The EF line is the pocket's fold line. It is from this line that the pocket will "fold back" on itself when sewn. The part above (from AB to EF) will correspond to the visible part in the side seam, and the part below (from EF to CD) will form the bottom of the pocket.
This division into two zones is what gives the pocket its functional shape and allows it to integrate neatly into the garment.
3 Place points a1 and c1
These are the last points to place before moving on to the final tracing. You just need to place two additional points that will help create the pocket's curves:
Point a1
On the left edge of the rectangle, measure 1 cm from corner A downwards. Place a point and call it a1. This point is very close to the top edge: it will create a flatness necessary for sewing the pocket later.
Point c1
On the right edge of the rectangle, measure 7 cm from corner C upwards. Place a point and call it c1. This point is located lower on the rectangle — it will create the curve of the pocket's bottom, giving it its welcoming depth and avoiding sharp angles that could snag your belongings.
4 Connect the points with curves and cut
This is the final step, and also the most rewarding: you will trace the definitive outline of your pocket by connecting all the points you have placed so far. The secret is not to draw straight lines between these points, but beautiful, soft curves.
Here is the order in which to connect the points, starting from A and going around the pocket:
- From A to a1 — a very slight curve (almost straight, as the point is close)
- From a1 to F — a more pronounced curve that creates the pocket opening
- From F to c1 — a line that descends along the right edge, with a slight curve towards the end
- From c1 to E — a beautiful rounded curve that forms the bottom of the pocket
- From E back to A — a line that goes up along the left edge
If you don't have a French curve or a curve ruler, here are some tips if you don't want to draw the curves freehand: you can use a plate, a bowl, or even the rim of a glass as a template to guide your pencil. You can also bend a flexible ruler (like a plastic school ruler) to get progressive curves.
Your pockets will be invisible, so if your curves aren't perfect, no problem, they'll be hidden; the important thing is that they are practical.
The measurements include 1 cm seam allowances. If the template seems a little small for your use, don't hesitate to add 1 cm all around.
Once your outline is traced and checked, cut out the pattern following the line. Your pocket pattern is ready!
Cutting the pattern from the fabric
Your paper pattern is ready. Now comes the cutting stage — and there's an important rule not to forget: you must cut this pattern 4 times from your fabric (if you want two pockets).
Why 4 times? Because a side pocket consists of two symmetrical elements (left and right), and each element is made of two layers of fabric. So:
- 2 pieces for the right pocket (front and back)
- 2 pieces for the left pocket (front and back)
If you're working with your fabric folded in half (right sides together), you can cut 2 times — you'll get 4 layers in a single cut. This is often the quickest method.
Some tips for adapting the pattern
Adapting the size to your body shape
The pattern I'm providing here is a base — a kind of universal pocket that suits most body shapes and garments. But nothing prevents you from adapting it to your needs:
| Situation | Suggested adjustment |
|---|---|
| Large hand or need space for a large phone | Increase to 19 cm width |
| Very fitted skirt or stiff fabric | Reduce to 15 cm width |
| Short garment (mini skirt) | Reduce height to 22–24 cm |
| Long dress with plenty of ease | Keep or slightly increase basic dimensions |
Choosing the right fabric for the pocket
You can sew the pocket from the same fabric as your garment, or use a lighter lining fabric. If your main fabric is thick (denim, wool, corduroy), opt for a thin lining fabric for the pockets: this reduces bulk in the side seams and results in a much neater finish.
However, if your main fabric is thin (voile, chiffon, lightweight viscose), you can sew the pocket directly into it — this will give more body to the whole garment.
You can also use fabric scraps; you'll need 4 scraps measuring 17 cm x 27 cm. Since the pockets aren't visible, you can use different fabric for these scraps, the only rule I advise you to follow is to choose fabrics of similar material/weight. Don't combine cotton with velvet fabric (yes, I'm exaggerating a bit).
Should the pocket be interfaced?
This will depend on the fabric used and its drape. For the pocket itself, it's not mandatory; however, if you're working with a very supple fabric that tends to stretch, you can interface the pocket opening (the curved part that will be assembled to the side seam). A small rectangle of soft interfacing placed at the opening will be enough to stabilize the area and prevent the pocket from gaping over time.
And now, sewing!
Now that your pattern is drawn and cut from the fabric, you're ready for the next step: assembling the pieces and integrating the pocket into the side seam of your garment. This step deserves an article all its own, so I'm offering you a complete tutorial!
In it, I explain how to position the pocket pieces on the front and back of your garment, how to assemble them before closing the sides, and some tips to ensure the opening lies flat and doesn't distort your skirt. It's really simpler than you think!
Summary — Your pattern in 4 steps
We've covered a lot in this article. Here's a summary of what to keep in mind:
- ✓ Draw a 17 cm × 27 cm rectangle and label the 4 corners A, B, C, D
- ✓ Draw the EF line 17 cm from AB, parallel to the top edge
- ✓ Place point a1 1 cm from A (left edge, downwards)
- ✓ Place point c1 7 cm from C (right edge, upwards)
- ✓ Connect points A → a1 → F → c1 → E → A by drawing beautiful, soft curves
- ✓ Cut out the outline — the pattern is ready!
- ✓ Cut the pattern 4 times from the fabric (or 2 times if the fabric is folded double)
- ✓ Adjust the dimensions if needed according to your body shape or the fabric chosen
